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- #TONE GROUPS ON HAMMOND B3 TONEGENERATOR HOW TO#
- #TONE GROUPS ON HAMMOND B3 TONEGENERATOR GENERATOR#
Hammond oil is some kind of repackaged turbine oil. If you don't hear the tonewheels spinning or if they're squeaky, most likely it does need Hammond oil (accept no substitutes) the consensus is that sewing machine oil is not the same. Refer to Jproc's post on the Start & Run switches. Could be the Chorus scanner motorboating but maybe not. I'm not sure what she means by "clicking" thru the speaker. $100 is about right for a semi-working M3. Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Philadelphia, I'd be willing to come look at it with you and help you get it running. more any reverb was part of an external tone-cabinet amplifier like the JR-20.) the stock M3 does not have reverb (although it wasn't completely unheard of for it to be added on at some point. I _think_ the Singer brand sewing machine oil is basically the same thing, but I'd check online first (check Hammond Wiki) very often there is a tube already inside the back of the organ strapped to the inside with twist ties. you don't need much.Ĭheck the back of the hammond when you get it. a single tube should last you 2 or three years. Hammond oil is available pretty cheaply on the web. The oil MUST be a parafin-free lubricant because the Hammond uses a very elaborate system of threads to deliver oil throughout the tone generator.Īny oil that contains parafins (MOST DO whether labeled as such or not - do not use WD40 or 3-In-1) will cause the thread wicks to gum up and not properly distribute oil. It is VERY important that you use the correct type of oil. These special bolts are removed / flipped over / and inserted the other direction to lock it down.
#TONE GROUPS ON HAMMOND B3 TONEGENERATOR GENERATOR#
When you go to move it, look under the back tonewheel generator cover - there are special "lockdown" screws that immobilize the tonewheel generator for transport (it is usually suspended by very heavy duty springs to keep its vibration from being translated through the body of the organ.) but all bets are off if anyone in the past "worked" on or modified the organ. the more likely problems are usually tubes, or the very thin wires that connect to the drawbars break or come unsoldered. not nearly as old as Model A's from the 30's.) unless subjected to abuse (touring) its unlikely that the TG is the culprit. M3's are really not that old as Hammonds go (1954-on I believe. Hammonds are built like tanks, and they were built to LAST. PS> In all of the Hammonds I've messed with over the years, its almost always the tubes. if you cant get it working and no longer need the tubes return 'em or sell 'em. if you can find somewhere that will let you return the tubes if you dont need them, buy a set ahead of time, and you can test the organ, swap the tubes as necessary to get it working. Search online and you should be able to find a schematic/block diagram of the M3's amplifier showing the tubes & layout. If you swap tubes between the 2 channels and the issue goes away and is present on the opposite channel you know its just the tube. sound in one position, silent,click,or wierd volume drop in the other would indicate which half of the amplifier has the tube problem. sometimes it can be as simple as flipping the chorus switch on and off. this can make testing the tubes as simple as identifying which channel is affected. The hammond preamp in an M3 really has 2 channels - one with, and one without the chorus/vibrato. The capacitors in a hammond tube amplifier store enough electricity that EVEN UNPLUGGED there is potentially enough voltage to give you a fatal shock. it is no exaggeration to say that you can get killed. i use an old tube tester, but there are possibly other ways to do it.
#TONE GROUPS ON HAMMOND B3 TONEGENERATOR HOW TO#
I'm sure you can find resources on how to possibly test the tubes.